Updated on December 8, 2022
Ieranto’s State of Mind : a personal story
All of the people that have passed through this project, more or less, will share similar thoughts, memories and moments from Ieranto. It is a place that pulls everyone in, including our group and me of course, and for that I really wanted to share my own experience and summer memories. I think it could be quite entertaining, not only for people wanting to participate in this project, but also for people just wondering what we are all doing every day in these kayaks, during all summer under the heat, and why exactly we enjoy it so much.
I think it all started when we saw Ieranto for the first time. We were not all together yet, but it gave to the ones that were there an idea of what was about to follow. It was a beautiful spring day (sunny and fresh) and we were taking a hike towards San Constanzo, the church that is right above Ieranto, one of the highest points in the area. And then we saw it. It was there, right below us, with its wings spread open, the falcon of the bay. The name Ieranto has Greek roots: it can come up either from the word ιέραξ, which means falcon, or from the word ιερό, which means holy. That moment, on the path, I could understand perfectly that both of these etymologies could be equally true. Looking at Ieranto from there you can see the shape of a falcon traveling around, and also the beauty of this place, which makes it kind of sacred ground.
Finally, after weeks of delay, we managed to start our activities in the bay in mid of June. This time the team was almost complete (only Olivier was missing). We all met in the square of Nerano, the small village that is exactly before the path that takes us to Ieranto. We sat around the map of the area and exchanged some basic information about where we were and what we were about to see. The adrenaline started to kick in. We were about to meet the place we would spend the rest of the summer in! I remember looking at the faces of everyone: some were nervous, others excited like me and others lost in daydreaming thoughts.
We would go to Ieranto in teams: some by land and others by sea with kayaks from Marina del Cantone. I was on the kayak team! When we managed to take all the needed equipment out (paddles, safe jackets, kayaks, wet bags for our stuff) and get ready (swimming suit, hat, sunglasses, shirt and water), the instructions by Mimì (our coordinator) started. How do we sit on kayaks, how do we hold the paddles, how do we navigate it in the sea? Info, info, info. It is interesting how all of this information that was thrown at us at that moment, without realizing, became imprinted on our brains later through experience. We did the most beautiful first kayak trip anyone could wish for. Paddling in the sea, visiting caves, cleaning a bit here and there, avoiding waves and maybe getting a bit sore. Our muscles were not trained yet to endure the 40 minutes trip to Ieranto, but this did not make the experience at all less exciting than it was.
Getting into the bay, I remember the wind blowing in my face and the water around me leading me towards the platform. I remember making a proper “wow” face, and the adrenaline kicking in for the second time that day. Observing the small beach, the stairs leading up to the buildings that used to be part of the quarry complex that used to be in Ieranto for years, the stone-made platform, the bigger beach with caves in both sides of it, the cliffs surrounding all the bay swallowing you in-keeping you grounded, the nature around me…The most beautiful part of it all was that we arrived by sea first. We took all of the beauty in, watching what we saw before from up-down, from exactly the opposite side, down-up. Looking back now, it is a very weird feeling when you see or feel a place for the first time. It is always unique and pure, a clean slate. No memories surrounding it, no recalling of previous times, no idea of how it actually is. There is nothing to spoil it. Try to picture your first time walking/driving/cycling on a street, that later you start using multiple times…Everything is alive, colorful, thrilling and sonorous. Your curiosity takes all the details in, without maybe processing them. They are just stimuli for your brain to linger on and process, when you finally understand how a place works. Usually this magic is getting lost as you get used to it, but thankfully this is not the case for Ieranto.
We explored all the caves, we went to the big beach, we swam, we dived from the platform, we snorkeled, we breathed it all in…We talked about our responsibilities there and how it was going to be during summer. All of us listening, but none of us exactly understanding. Describing reality in Ieranto is not an easy thing to do. The day served as a first training for us, a training for all the activities that were about to begin, plus as a first meeting with our “home” for the rest of the summer.
The route to Ieranto from land is equally thrilling. There is a hiking path from Nerano leading to the bay 30 minutes long. It can be challenging in certain spots, especially while coming up, but give it some time and I promise that you will learn to enjoy it. The path is surrounded by nature and the constant presence of sea on the horizon. Beautiful panoramas here and there and after a point you have Capri in front of you. It is as if you can touch it, so close it seems to be. When you reach that point you know that you are either arriving at the bay, or if you are returning back, that the steep part is about to finish. Also you know that it is time for the coffee of Salvatore, the most delicious coffee you will ever taste, with the perfect view and the best company. I was always appreciative of these moments and I think so were the others. They are moments of calmness and rest, during a period that you will not have a lot of those.
Our activities in Ieranto were mainly the same every day, while having of course some surprises on the way. What we do usually after arriving is: taking out the needed kayaks, waterproof tables for keeping data, setting an info point in which we work together with FAI (who owns and manages Ieranto bay –on the land– all year long), preparing for possible excursions during the day and organizing our turns for both monitoring by land and sea. This kind of routine had been established early on and every time depending on the pair that was working, we were adjusting the turns accordingly.
Since Ieranto belongs to Zone B of the Marine Protected Area of Punta Campanella, it is necessary to prevent unauthorized motor boats from entering and mainly anchoring in its waters. That is the part of sea monitoring with the kayaks. Ieranto is characterized by the presence of Posidonia oceanica meadows, a very important seagrass for the Mediterranean basin, providing oxygen and enhancing biodiversity in the sea. The process of approaching the boats is always an experience. All of us had their own way of explaining to them why they can’t stay here or asking for some basic info from them, which makes it quite interesting. You understand the different personalities of everyone and ways of interactions. Of course there were cases of us paddling after boats, in our small yellow kayaks, while waving and making signs to prevent them from the worst: setting the anchor and destroying the meadows. Not all the people on the unauthorized boats were accepting of the fact that they cannot stay on the bay, but many of them were interested in what we were saying and understanding of how important it is for Ieranto to be preserved and protected. There were also authorized boats entering, using the boas to remain for a bit on the bay and enjoy its magnificence. These boats were filled with familiar faces, accompanied with groups of tourists. After a point we learnt to recognise the permitted boats by afar and we all had our favorite ones, the ones we preferred more to interact with. Even with them we had to keep data to be sure we are aware of their use of the bay.
The next part of the activities were the excursions. Groups of tourists that were visiting Ieranto, wanting to get to know it better. They could do a guided tour with kayaks or a guided snorkel dive, or both of them. Some groups were bigger than others, some more motivated, some more interested, but all sharing the excitement of exploring Ieranto. After a point we also got the chance to do some guided tours and provide all the information we had gathered during our experience there. To speak about the history of the bay, the species of animals that characterize parts of it, the natural elements that define it and to share the love we have for this place with them. There were days that required the whole team to show up, since we had large groups of people visiting due to special events. Every day were usually just 2-3 volunteers, with one responsible (Gianna or Alba), and the employees of FAI. Those days we could be at least 10 of us working at the same time, making the situation quite stressful and chaotic. Especially the first weeks that we did not have much experience with large groups, brought to the surface some organizing issues we had. By the end though it was amazing how we had managed to evolve, how everything worked as a well-oiled machine, how everyone knew exactly what had to be done, how everyone helped with everything without even realizing, how we were adapting simultaneously when something didn’t go according to the plan.
We were surrounded constantly by all the people from FAI, who were there to assist us and provide info along with us to all the people entering the bay, making them aware of the beauty and the history of the place that they were about to see, as well as raising awareness about its need to be protected and respected. I have so many beautiful memories of discussions with visitors either by land or by the sea. It was also heart-warming finding people to share the appreciation we have for this place and respect the work that we were doing. All of us I think recall funny moments with eager visitors.
And then it’s the part of going home after a long long day in the sea. You get those two feet that carried you down, to carry you up. With heat and tiredness that sometimes you mind, but mostly you don’t. Because there is the coffee stop as I already mentioned, and then you reach Nerano where you get to relax and enjoy a bit of the life of the place, either while playing football with the kids or having a small aperitivo. You get to laugh and talk about the nice moments of the day, and thank your body for making all the effort. What follows is going home to “the family” of volunteers, sharing a meal, enjoying the summer night and catching up. By the end of summer you get to have so many similar but unique days at the same time and you get to wonder how was it possible for me to endure a summer like this so easily. I still have this question for me. I never expected how strong my body got to be and my will as well. It’s so interesting to see the mental and physical evolution we all had during these months.
Even in November when we went for some last things that had to be done, Ieranto hadn’t lost its character. I got to swim in its waters one last time, along with a seabird which was fishing some meters away from me. Because that’s what you get when you are there: one balance between people and nature. We have seen rays, barracuda schools, sea stars bigger than our palms, and so much more that you usually forget how impressive they can be. Nature is part of us and Ieranto keeps reminding us this.
I think that the most beautiful part of Ieranto is hidden in two different spots. I wish I knew if others share the same opinion as me, but in reality this is the most subjective part of this entry. The first part is the connection that it has managed to create between so many different people and this is something that has happened mainly because of Project M.A.R.E. Brining volunteers to work every year creates a chain of people who love a very specific place. But it’s not only the volunteers and the people managing the Project that belong to this chain. It is the locals, it is the people from FAI who supported us constantly, it is the visitors, it is every group that came by for a guided tour, and it is everyone that we spoke to in these boats. This chain is what makes Ieranto so special. It is a place where you sense the positive and loving energy of a community.
The second part that for me was defining my feelings for Ieranto is the experience of being alone in a kayak in the middle of the sea. I do not know if I can still explain it to people. It is a feeling of humbleness. You are there, surrounded by blue, by rocks that change shape every hour of the day, by nature. You live in the now. There is nothing before or after that moment, because at that moment you are just there. Waiting for a boat, doing a dive to refresh yourself, making a small tour with your kayak here and there. But you are always there. It is you, your thoughts and the paddle. You can either accept it and enjoy it or bear it. I chose to do the first and I recommend it to any future volunteers as well.
If you ever visit Ieranto, always remember that we were also there. That every spot has a shared history and that your memories of the place will stay there as well, making Ieranto even more precious. Because memories are treasured and valuable. Remember that we probably have a story to tell and reach out to ask all of the people loving Ieranto why they adore it that much. I am very sure you are going to realize that all these unspoken feelings are somehow similar between all of them.
Xenia Symeonidou
